December 18th - A Little Climb to the Top of the World

We woke for an early 7AM breakfast today before setting off by bus to a ranch on the north side of the Torres Del Paine Park.  After about an hour of driving we reached an upscale resort hotel and working ranch and the trailhead of the Mirador del Torres trail.  Sara was informed that this would be too difficult a trail for her to handle so she checked into the day spa at the hotel.  The rest of the group was broken into two groups, those who would hike faster and more than likely to the top of the mountain, and those who would be a bit slower and only go as far as the Chilean Refuge.

Mauricio, our mountian guide, gave us some last minute pointers and instructions and off we went.  As we were trekking across the ranches pasture we encountered a huge herd of horses, possible over 200, being moved from one area to another - and a break neck speed.  Suddenly we stood in front of this massive herd as it raced past us at full gallop under the careful herding of gauchos on horseback.

We crossed  few streams and then a swinging bridge over the Ascension River.  Then is was uphill into the Ascension Valley.  The trail was well marked with many hikers, each with a goal of reaching the top.  The climb was a steady uphill haul for well over three hours.  It was a cloudy day with patches of sun and there was a slight chill in the air.  At the top of the pass and before entering the valley itself, we met with high winds, some 40 - 50 mph.  It was quite a feet to stand on the ground and not be swept off the trail and down the steep cliffs to the river far below.  We eventually reached the Chilean Refuge and the half way mark - roughly 6 miles into the day´s hike.  At the refuge we enjoyed a well deserved rest and some hot cocoa.  There were many hikers staying at the refuge and in the small mountain camp which surrounded it.  It was a hikers oasis in the middle of this awesome valley.  Steep moutains surrounded us.

After about 30 minutes the slower group caught up with us, we had quick chat and shared some stories of the windy pass, and then the fast group took off into the valley.  For the next two hours we wanderded over a heavily forested terrain of Lenga and Beech trees.  The trails was dotted with an amazing assortment of wildflowers and Amelia was taking a picture of each species she encountered.  The winds were brisk and when we got into a clearing they were as furocious as before.  At the mountain encampment Kathryn chose to step off the trail and wait for us to return from the last segment.  There in front of us were the towers of Torres del Paine and a grueling 1 1/2 hour climb straight up over a boulder field which is the moraine of the glaceir high above.  

We took off at a good pace and soon were overcome by the climb.  Circling and sometimes climbing over these huge rocks we eventually reach to top and found ourselves at the bottom of the towers looking up some 600 to 900 feet in the air at these three massive monoliths of granite.  At the bottom was a aqua green glacial lake and to the left the glacier that was filling it.  The view was breathtaking.  It was amazing.  Now a full eight miles into the hike and still needed to backtrack to the ranch we began our decsent, met up with Kathryn at the bottom of the moraine, and headed back down the hill at a quick pace.  Four hours later we were back at the bus, a full 11 hour hike and now with almost 16 miles under our feet, we were exhausted, exhilerated at our accomplishment, and ready for a nice nap during the ride back to the campground.

The slower group had turned around at the refuge and had been back for some time.  They met up with a well healed Sara and were waiting for the rest in the hotel.  We got reached our campground an hour or so later, and had a late dinner at 9AM in the dining hall with windows facing the mountains we had climbed that day.  There was no trouble gettin to sleep this night as we all crawled into our tents and passe out.

December 17th - Drinving HWY 40 - Wow!

Today we got up at 6AM and were on the road by 7:30.  Heading south from El Calafate we traversed the Argentine Steppe south to Torres Del Paine National Park.  Six hour of driving over praire, grassland,  and ascending impressive steppe mesas, we viewed countless guanacos (wild llamas) and rheas (ostrich like b birds).  We spotted many condors overhead as well as South American brown eagles and other birds.  We reached the Chilean boder at 1PM where we were met our mountain guide, Mauricio.  After going through a pretty scrutenous border check (papers, luggage, and huge tarrif) we enjoyed a great Chilean style lunch before heading into the park.  Once in the park there were more wildlife to see, countless crystal blue lakes and an amazing waterfall.  The wind was amazing as well with gusts up to 50 mph.  We reached our campground around 6PM.  Seven little yellow tents with sleeping bags all neatly set up with a bathroom a short walk away.  After reviving Verena, Rita, and Sara (somehow they forgot the word ¨tent¨ in our itinerary, we had some free time to explore the lakeshore and take some awesome photos of the mountains.  Absolutely magnificent.

Pictures - Pictures - Pictures

Okay, for all of you who are wondering where all the pictures are....be patient...smile.   So far our internet  time has been little and when we get to a computer there are twelve of us desperate to check in with family.  Our days have been so full that we have had no time for dancing for rebel-rousing!  Pictures will come eventually and we´ll let you know when they start to get posted.  We have a free day coming up soon!  Hang in there.

December 16th - Perito Moreno Glacier and a Windy Day

We all got to sleep in a bit today and had breakfast on our own time.  The Hostel del Glacier Pioneros is a lovely place with a sweet little breakfast concession that is reminisent of a Swiss ski lodge.  The staff were very pleasant and accommodating as we enjoyed a traditional continental breakfast of toasts, cereals, and coffee.  Our guide Nicholas met us on time and introduced us to our glacier guide, Juan and driver Esteban.  At 9:30 we boarded our private bus and headed out over the Argentinean Steppe toward the Andes Mountains.  The landscapse reminded us of the California foothills, sparce, dry, sagebrush.  We saw wild llamas, eagles, a condor in flight, several species of goose, and many flocks of flamingos.  The drive was broken up wiht a few stops to look at wild flowers and to admisre a large herd of sheep grazing near the road.

As we approached the mountains the elevations and landscape changed to that of Beech and Lengas trees.  Soon we were into the beauty of the Andean footnills.  After passing through the national park check point the face of the glacier was in view.  Being from Alaska you would think we would not be impressed by another glaceir.  Well, this one is massive and magnificent.  The series of steel walkways go on for miles.  We used them to view all of the aspects of the glacial face.  Afterwards we had a light lunch at the lodge before heading back into town.

When we reached El Calafate an hour later half of us opted to visit the lagoon and view the flamingos and other birds.  Another long walk of about four miles brought us back into the city center for some shopping time before dinner.  Later that night our trek guide Nicholas treated us to a traditional Patagonian BBQ - beef, lamb and all the fixings...too muich good...and oh so good.  A great night's sleep followed.  We have to get up very early tomorrow.

Decembert 15th - Back to Port and Points Beyond

We woke this morning to find ourselves still at sea, only traveling so smoothly that we thought we were already tied to the pier.  Still in the Beagle Channel we were quickly approaching the port of Ushuaia and soon the loudspeakers onboard were barking instructions for our last morning onboard the Sergey Vavilov.  After another amazing breakfast - John says his most favorite meal of the day - we checked our bags one more and left them in the hallway.  At around 9AM we left the ship and were taken to the luggage storage location.  The rest of the morning was free time to wander the streets of the southermost city in the world, mail our heavy antarctic clothing home, and visit the museum.  

At the post office we got a big surprise.  A mere $50 to $75 to mail our parkas home...yikes.  With people saving our place in line we each took turns going across the street to the bank to get more pesos.  Our packages will arrive home in three to six weeks - or - maybe never - we are warned that the Argentine mail service is notorius for losing packagbes!

Some of us had lunch once again at Ramos General Store - just can't seem to get enough of that lovely little antique store/restaurant.  At 2:00 PM we gathered at the lugage storage spot, got our bags, and headed to the airport.  Our flight was delayed about 30 minutes and the terminal was unbeleiveably hot.  So once again we were pealing off layers of clothing.

Our Austral Airlines was quite nice with a bit of turbulance upon takeoff and landing.  Flying high over the Argentine Pampas it was hard to beleive that somewhere in the distance were 16,000 to 20,000 foot mountains.  We landed in El Calafate on the Chilean border and were met at the airport by our personal guide, Nicolas.  He is a pleasant and well spoken young man in his early 20's.  He will be with us for the next nine days.

We checked into our hostal, Los Pioneros de Los Glaciers and got settled in.  We were all pleased to find beautifully prepared rooms, clean as a whistle.  With city maps in hand we each took off in different directions looking to exhange money, find bottled water, and do some quick souvenger shopping.

Later that evening we gathered at a really fine restuarant - way, way out of our budget - and enjoyed an amazing dinner of truly succlent Argentiean steaks, chops, and lamb.  Along with a couple bottles of whine, with was quite an evening.  Afterwards a short walk found us at the local ice cream store for a late night treat.

December 14th – Our Last Day at Sea

We woke late and made it to breakfast.  The seas were still quite high and the rocking has gone on all night long.  No one has seen Sara for a full day now…word has it that she is sequestered in her room heavily medicated for sea=sickness.  The rest of our group eventually made it to the dining room for a quick breakfast.  Today we where offered two presentations.  One was a documentary of a ship to sail around Cape Horn.  The footage was filmed in 1927.  It was very interesting.  The hard part was watching the ship on film rocking and rolling as were we at the same time.

The second presentation was a slide show of snapshots taken during the polar plunge.  We all had a great laugh watching each other’s faces as we bobbed up and down on the cold water.  Lunch was at 12:30 PM today with pizza as the main course.  Afterwards we laid low and simply watched the waves and the rocking of the boat.

At about 3PM we sighted land and knew at once that the rough part was almost over.  By 6PM things has calmed down quite a bit and at the Captain’s dinner we all enjoyed a calm dining room and a lovely dinner of Filet Mignon with all the trimmings.  Then it was off to bed as we have an early morning and a full day tomorrow as we set off for Patagonia.

Antarctica, for Tom anyway, the absolutely most cool thing ever done.  Absolutely amazing!

December 13th - Back at Sea - High Sea - Grab those Puke Bags!

We are now in the middle of a hurricane.  100 plus mile per hour winds.  The captain has closed all outside decks and all of the water-tight doors have been secure.  Meal services has been limited ot what will stay on the place in between the rocking and rolling.

Few of us bravely went downstairs to take part in the presentations on the lower decks.  Sea Sickness medic ations poured out of the onboard clinic.  It was quite a long 24 hours.

December 12th – The Shetland Islands

After last night’s dinner and during the night we began the crossing from the Antarctic Peninsula to the Shetland Islands.  The seas were gentile and the ship rolled only slightly.  With a 5:30 AM wakeup we all retired early to get some rest.  After a 6AM breakfast we landed in XXXX Bay for a really cool hike from one side of the island to the other.  We say three species of penguins, Adele, Chinstrap, and Gento.  The highlight was both Weddell and Elephant seals all sunning on the beach.  We were able to get within a few feet of this huge animal and lots of photos were taken.  On a nearby mound were nesting Skea birds.  Being a protected area we weren’t able to get too close.  Being a bit further north of the peninsula we actually walked on sand rock, instead of snow, and a lot of the island was exposed with a lot of patches of green moss and other ground cover.  Although the morning was overcast, it was pleasant.  We were on land for about three hours before returning to the ship.

Lunch today was hot dogs and macaroni and cheese – or what the Russian and Argentinean version is . . . smile.  During lunch we set out to the passage again for a five hour cruise to King George Island, location of bases from five different countries.  Today we were guests of the Chinese research station.  Very modern and well equipped, we toured the Chinese faculty and went into several buildings.  The base was sparsely populated with maybe 15 people.  In the summer months (Jan – Apr) it will grow to over 40.  They were very nice and accommodating.

We returned the ship in late afternoon for tea on the observation deck. Shortly before dinner the seas became very rough with 15 to 30 foot ways.  We were officially back in the Drake Passage.  During dinner table, chairs, passengers, and eating utensils routinely sailed across the room.  Soup and wine service were suspended for the evening because of the rocking of the ship.  Needless to say the dinner hour was short…get it in and get out.  The rest of the evening was spent in the observation lounge marveling at the size of the waves and the side to side and front to back rocking of the ship.  We were promised a full night long assault from the now hurricane winds and tidal surge.

December 11th – Another Glorious Day in Antarctica

We woke this morning to find that the ship had relocated to another fabulous small circular harbor surrounded by amazingly high monoliths of granite.  There was little shoreline visible with the ice shelves meeting the water’s edge from a sharp decline.  After breakfast we suited up for our first landing-a glacial hike up to the top of one of the ridgelines surrounding the bay, and a chance to see our first Chinstrap Penguin colonies.  After our landing it was quickly decided that climbing the 45 degree smooth ice face of the slope was not safe and we returned to the ship.  After a short sail we found ourselves in yet another quiet cove surrounded by a huge colony of Gento penguins.  After landing we spent about two hours roaming through the various nesting spots and taking photos.  Afterwards, and before returning to the ship, we were treated to a harbor cruise among the massive icebergs.

Back at the ship we had lunch while cursing to our next destination, Wilhelmina Bay, and with hopes of sighting whales.  Laurie also hinted at a special event that would take place in the last afternoon.  The scenery was spectacular and sure enough we sighted several humpback whales as we cruised through jagged mountains and a myriad of glaciers and glacial plains.

At 3:00 PM we were all invited to a Polar Plunge.  Yep, down to our skivvies, and into the 34 degree water of Antarctica.  Of the 100 passengers, 34 decided they were lunatics AND of the 34 lunatics, six of our twelve opted for the event.  First in line was Kathryn, followed by Frenchy, then Tom and Bobbie, then Rita, and finishing up with John.  Donning lifejackets and a tether with a twenty foot line, we all took our turns at bravely walking down the gangway, jumping in the water, and then very QUICKLY getting out and back up and into the ship.  It was a blast and everyone both wet and dry had a great time.  Those that braved the lunacy were given certificates to commemorate their feat.

December 10th – Our First Continental Landing

Up until now we have been visiting island just off of the Antarctic
Peninsula.  Today we get to step foot on the continenent itself.  After
breakfast we suited up in our Antarctic gear and headedto shore once again,
this time to a deserted Argentinean outpost.  After visiting the penguin
colonies and climbing a nearby snow cliff for some pretty awesome views, we
boarded our zodiacs for a morning cruise among the blue icebergs and claving
glaciers.  The colors are intense and mystifying.   After a few hours of
cruising around, we returned to the ship for lunch.

This afternoon we landed once again on the continenent just in time to watch
a magnificent calving of the nearby glacier.  The tidal surge was over six
feet high and we had to run up from the beach and on to the snow cliffs to
escape being washed way.  This was quite exciting.  We spotted our first
Chinstrap Penquin and a couple more leopard seals.  Whales could be seen
breaching in the distance.

Tonight we enjoyed an Antarctic BBQ on the rear deck of the ship…ribs,
chicken, and all the fixings.  There was music and a lot of laughter.  By
now we have gotten to know a lot of the other 80 passengers on the ship and
have discovered that there are about 17 different nationalities.  A true
Antarctic melting pot.

December 9th – German and British Outposts

During the night we sailed into another secluded bay to find a fully
operational German research station.  We landed our zodiacs on a rocky
shoreline and made our way up the snow path to the station.  After touring
the station and talking with the researchers we visited the nearby penguin
colonies and were able to grab our first glimps of a few eggs.  Returning to
the ship we sailed to the other side of the huge bay and visited yet another
outpost, this one run by the British and now a fully restored museum and
post office.  The visit was grand we toured the various rooms of the
station, bought and mailed postcards home, and once again enjoyed the
penguins colonies across a small inlet.  There we were able to get within a
few feet of a paid of leopard seals sunning themselves in the bright and
warm summer sun.

This evening we gathered on deck for the most magnificent sunset at midnight
you can imagine.  As we watched the sky turn from blue to yellow, to pink to
red we also watched 30 passengers take to the zodiacs for an overnight
camping adventure in the snow of a nearby island…yikes.  The temperature
during the day has never gotten above 34 and tonight will be well below
freezing.  I’m sure there will be stories to tell in the morning.

December 8th – The Antarctic Peninsula

After another bumpy night we reached the South Shetland Isalnds and the
inside passage fo the Antarctic Peninsula.  The mountains are stunning,
rising straight out of the water, some as high as 10,000 feet.  After some
serious thought and reviewing weather conditions the captain decided to take
us as far south as possible today and then begin working our way back up the
passage.

Mid-morning found us entering Lemaire Channel.  This narrow channel is
spectacular with high rock walls and loads of snow and icebergs.  Once
inside the passage the rough waters subsided completely, the sun came out,
and the start of a glorious day was at hand.  We spotted Leopard Seals on
the ice flows and the varying colors of blue in the ice and the glaciers
that surrounded us were amazing.

Our first landing was to a colony of Gento penguins.  We were all issued our
bright yellow Antarctic parkas, boots, and life jackets.  Once by one we
made our way down the gangway to the water’s edge where our zodiacs were
waiting.  Twelve at a time we were ferried to the shoreline line were we
disembarked.  Pengujins were everywhere, totally oblivious to us and simply
going about their life of feeding and then climbing up the slopes to their
awaiting mate who was patiently keeping their precious egg warm.  We started
a climb to the top of the mountain, not an easy task, passinjg colony after
colony of birds, all nesting on the warm rock outcroppings.  It took nearly
an hour to reach the top and the reward was worth the effort.  Hundreds of
birds, climbing up as high as us mind you, surrounded us.  We sat and took
photos and marveled at the spectical.

After several hours on shore we returned to the ship for lunch.  Our next
landing would be at 2:00PM.  We sailed back up the channel and into a quiet
bay.  There the expedition leaders once again surveyed the weather and
possible landing spots.  The decision was made to head north toward the
upper regions of the peninsula and to a bay full of whales, seals, and of
course more penguins.

Lunch was terrific and the conversation was full of recollections of what we
had seen that morning.  At around 2:30 PM we once again disembarked to a
beach and began our wandering through the myriad of penguin colonies.  After
several hundred photos we once again returned to the ship for dinner and
then a movie in Tom and Bobbies suite

December 7th – Second Day at Sea

The winds picked up overnight and the sea was even more outrageous that tne
night before.  We all reminded ourselves that we would have two days of this
on the way back to Cape Horn…yikes.  The rain was torrential and the ship’s
captain closed all outside decks.  Meal service was interesting to say the
least.

During the day we had two additional lectures:  one was on Ice and its
rock-like qualities.  The other was on whales and seals.  The education
aspect of the trip so far has been outstanding preparing us for what we will
see once we reach the Antarctic Peninsula.

Tonight after dinner the group got together in Tom and Bobbie’s cabin for a
movie.

December 6th – First day at Sea

Last night after dinner we entered Drakes Passage and none of the warnings
we were given about rough water proved long.  Most of the group took the
advise of the ship’s captain and took their motion sickness medication.  The
night was very rough with the boat rocking from side to side.  When we awoke
and saw what was going on outside we were all a bit concerned.  We were in
the middle of the Drakes Passage riding up to 20 foot waves.  Every step we
took required a firm hand hold on the hallway and stairwell rails.  The
higher up on the ship the worse the rocking became.  Everyone was in good
humor however and taking advantage of the ship doctor’s advise none of us
got sick.

We enjoy several lectures today.  The ship’s historian talked about the
history of Antartica and the many historic voyages of exploration.  The head
of the expedition gave a talk on the formation of sniow flakes and the
significant scientific study in most recent years to classify the specific
shapes and configuration of the snow crystals.

Lunch was served in the dining room with plates, serving dishes, and glasses
moving around and some making it to the floor.  In the afternoon we all
settled in upstairs in the observation lounge to watch the huge waves and to
sway back and forth with the ship.

In the afternoon we once again enjoyed two more lectures; one from the
resident geologist and another from the bird expert.

December 5th – Almost there…

We woke at 3AM and packed in preparation for the day.  Private cars were

once again waiting for us at 4AM to take us to the airport for our 5:45 AM

flight.  As we were prepaing the leave the hotel we discovered that Verena

and Rita overslept.  A loud taxi horn and phone call woke them and in five

minutes there were dressed and packed.  You’ll have to ask them for their

own stories later on…smile.  At the airport we got our boarding passes and

boarded LAN Airlines for our four hour flight to Ushuaia.  Once again we

were pleased to see an immaculate and beautiful pane with great service…and

much to our surprise less than half full.  I’m sure you guess at what was

running through out heads.

As we approached Ushuaia several of us remarked that from the air it looked

just like home – snow on the mountains and open patches of tundra and newly

thawed ponds.  We landed at 9:30 AM and were met at the gate by the cruise

staff. When we had not arrived the morning before they had taken it upon

themselves to check with the airline, learned of our delimema, and that we

were booked on today’s flight.  What a relief to be doing business with a

far greater organized business!

Our bags were checked and forwarded to the ship and we were dropped off in

the small city’s center for four hours of sightseeing.

The group broke up and headed in different directions.  Being Sunday, a few

gift shops were open.  The day was amazingly sunny and warm…we missed the

rain and last snowfall of the season by just two days!  At 1:00PM we

gathered for lunch at Ramos General Store.  The store and restaurant are

designed to look like an old general store from the 1800’s with antiques all

over the place.  The bakery made amazing pastries.  We all enjoyed a great

lunch of fish, paninis and homemade pasta.  Some local draft beer and great

herbal tea blends made the meal special.

At 3:30 PM we boarded the transfer bus to the pier and were introduced to

our ship.  The Academik Sergei Vavilof is an Antarctic Exploration vessel.

It carries a maximum of 132 passenger, thus only two lifeboats each holding

66 people.  We were checked into our rooms, enjoyed a welcome drink and

small introduction lecture in the bar topside, and then went out to the

decks to water the sailing out of Beagle Channel.  As night fell we were

given a fabulous dinner in the dining room before heading off to bed.

Pictures to come so stay tuned.

December 4th – The Journey into the Next Day

As soon as the ticket windows opened at 5:30 AM we decided to check in and
get our boarding passes.  We wanted to make sure we were on that plane.
After the first six of us had been processed Bobbie realized that they had
put us on a much later flight and that we would not make our Buenos Aires to
Ushuaia connection.  She called a supervisor over an explained the
situation.  To our surprise the supervisor was able to get us on the next
flight to Buenos Aires…the only issue was that it was leaving in 30 minutes.

She issued new boarding passes and escorted us to immigration and security.
In immigration we were met with the next challenge.  Since we had not been
processed properly the night before, we were not being allowed to leave the
country.  Having immediately gained illegal alien status in Brazil, we
became the star attention of the border authorities.  After a lot of
explanations, and the finding of the passenger manifest from the night
before, we made it through immigration and on to our plane.  Once seated and
assured that we would be taking off on time, we laughed at the reality that
the twelve of us had successfully gained illegal entry into a foreign
country and then got out.  Oh my!

Our flight to Buenos Aires was once again aboard a beautifully appointed and
well served aircraft.  A hearty breakfast was followed by a few hours of
sleep.  For Tom it was for the first sleep he had had in now 30 hours.  We
landed in Buenos Aires International Airport at 9AM confident that with the
extra three hours we would reach Ushuaia only ten hours late.  Tom left the
group in the waiting area and went on meet the TAM Supervisor in charge of
our situation.  Once there he discovered that TAM has not made the
reservations on the other airline, that there were only five seats left on
one flight leaving in two hours and another seven seats left on a another
flight leaving in four hours.  The only obstacle was a one hour transfer bus
to the domestic airport.  TAM agreed to pay for the bus transfer, got
tickets issued in a matter of minutes, and then it was a sprint from the
south terminal to the north terminal to gather the group and make the bus
leaving in ten minutes.  It was a sight indeed to see the TAM supervisor
running in high heels and Tom at her side with his back on.  We gathered the
group and made the bus with literally a minute to spare.

The drive across Buenos Aires to the downtown airport was quick as we
watched neighborhoods and large apartment building pass by.  We were amazed
at the density of the city with people literally living one on top of the
other.  Arriving at the AEP domestic terminal the group settled in for a
snack and beverage while Tom sought out the TAM representative to get the
tickets they had arranged for us.  He returned an hour later with the TAM
official and news that the seats had not been held as had been promised and
that now all were sold out.  We would not be seeing Ushuaia today.  Our
phones did not work and we could not contact our Antarctica cruise company
as it was Saturday.  TAM airlines said there was nothing they could do and
they were sorry.  Tom informed them that the whole series of events was
unacceptable and that since we did not accept their offer of a hotel room in
Sao Paolo that we would graciously expect one now.

Within a few moments the official returned to inform us that we would be
housed by the airline’s expense at a 5 star hotel downtown and that
transportation and two meals would also be covered.  A short time later we
were met by four private vehicles that quickly took us to the Hotel El
Conquistador in the Recoleta section of the city.  The rooms were
beautifully appointed with king beds and very nice bathrooms.  We were
invited to lunch on the balcony overlooking the main lobby and the city
streets below.  Afterwards we enjoyed free time wandering the city center
and doing a bit of unexpected exploring.  We were served a beautiful steak
dinner later that evening.  A few of the gang took off for some nighttime
exploring while the rest of us tucked in for a good night sleep and a very
early call the next morning.

December 3rd – A long day’s journey begins . . .

5AM found everyone on time in the lobby of the hotel and waiting for the hotel shuttle.  Some last minute instructions were followed by the short ride to the terminal.  As we checked in for TAM Airlines we quickly discovered that they were weighing all of the carryon luggage…with a 20 pound limit we knew we would be well over the limit.  Some quick relocating of bags behind others in line and hiding bags behind pillars got us through the check in process without one of our bags being checked.  Whew!  Once at
the gate we all laughed as most everyone there had carryon bags larger and more than likely more heavy than ours….smile…so much for us being so coy!  We enjoyed a light breakfast as the airport café and anxiously awaited Carol’s arrival.  One hour before our Sao Paolo flight was to depart a very tired lady appeared pulling her wheeled backpack behind her.  THE GANG WAS COMPLETE.

After boarding TAM Airlines we once again were pleased to be on yet another beautiful and meticulously clean and well appointed wide body South American airline.  The plane had coach seats a bit wider than those of the American airlines.  The seats reclined back further as well.  The flight was full with no empty seats in tourist class.  We were immediately served a very nice breakfast with beverages.  Then it was time to settle in for a nap or enjoy one of the over 50 selections of movies, TV shows, and other offerings in the included entertainment package.  Four hours into the nine hour flight we were served a really nice lunch with choice of beef tips, roasted chicken, or pasta.  Along with free wine and cocktails we were quickly satisfied of any hunger pains we might have experienced.  Another four hours and Sao Paolo appeared on the horizon.  With the three hour time frame, we were now completing the first 12 hours of our very long journey to the tip of South America.

We disembarked and headed for the terminal by transfer busses.  Once inside it was through another level of security and the confiscation of Tom’s camera tripod.  According to Brazilian TSA tripods are weapons.  At the gate waiting for our next flight to Buenos Aires we were informed that the flight would be delayed at least two hours.  It was hot, humid, and crowded, but
because the flight status changed every few minutes we were afraid to wander too far from the gate.  Three hours later we were boarded on the aircraft.  Already concerned that we might miss our flight to Ushuaia, two Brazilian fellows added to the unrest by complaining about the delay.  They were loud and kept getting up and arguing with the flight crew.  Because of the disturbance the airline would not close the doors.  We kept thinking to ourselves, if we were in the US the police would have been called already and these guys would have been taken into custody.  The turmoil created restlessness and many started getting up and pulling their bags out of the overhead compartments.  Our group simply sat and watched the ridiculous behavioral of the Brazilians and Argentineans and wondered why the airline company was allowing this to happen.

Now four hours late and with the aircraft doors still open, the captain announced that he had exceeded the time allowed for him to fly and that the flight was canceled.  We were in panic mode because we would now miss our 5:45AM flight to Ushuaia.  We all left the aircraft and were transported back to the terminal and through Brazilian immigration.  We were surprised that they did not check our passports, but simply checked off our names for the passenger manifest.  Once in the terminal we were informed that we would be given hotel rooms and put on a noon flight to Buenos Aires the next day.  We were concerned about not getting back to the airport in time and decided to sit it out in the terminal to insure departure.  We settled in at a local café while Tom took off with a TAM Airline official to sort through the challenge.  Two hours later he returned with good news.  He was able to get us on a 10:20 flight which would get us to Buenos Aires in time to catch one of two flights on another airline that would get us to Ushuaia.  TAM Airlines agreed to pay for the new flights.

December 2nd - Gathering of the Gang . . .

 We enjoyed a lazy morning with Becky and Leo in Ft.  Lauderdale.  Frenchy finished writing postcards to her class in the Alaskan bush and Bobbie and Tom enjoyed more family time.  Around 9AM we discovered that Carol had missed her Anchorage to Miami flight.  Yikes!  Luckily she was able to get
re-booked and will arrive tomorrow morning about two hours prior to our flight to Sao Paolo.  That’s cutting it a bit close.

At noon we gathered once again for a great family lunch and more laughs.  As we were preparing to leave for the airport Frenchy discovered her keys were missing which meant that we could not move the car, let alone drive it.   After a thorough search of the house, the grounds, and under every piece of
furniture that existed we agreed to accept the inevitable…the keys were either lost or locked in the truck of the car.  With AAA Club card in hand we called for a locksmith, left it all in the hands of Leo’s housekeeper, and took off for Miami in Leo’s truck.

Once at the La Quinta Inn at the Miami airport we met up with the rest of the gang.  Verena, Rita, John, Amelia, Hans, and Judy arrived early morning and had enjoyed the day poolside.  Sara had stayed the night before at another hotel and arrived along with Kathryn in the late afternoon.  Some repacking and reducing of extra carry-ons brought everyone into “compliance” with the trip required amount of luggage.  We called upon the packing skills of Rita to get everything in its place….oh my, are those little carry-on backpacks bulging!

Some last minute details were confirmed and we all met at Bennigan’s for our welcome dinner.  A few cocktails loosened everyone up and a great dinner finished the night.  With last minute instructions in hand, we all headed back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep and a very early morning…all praying along the way that Carol was in the air and would make it on time.

December 1st - Tampa to Ft. Lauderdale

10 AM, packed, and ready to hit the road.  Frenchy, Tom, and Bobbie set off in Frenchy's land yacht for the five hour drive from Tampa to Ft. Lauderdale.  The drive was pretty with blue skies and white clouds.  As we neared the Everglades the day turned cloudy making the drive across Alligator Alley even more creepy.  We arrived in Ft. Lauderdale at Leo and Becky's home, Bobbie's sister and brother-in-law.  The family gathered this evening for the first night of Hanukkah.  We lit candles and had a toast.  The food was great and we all opened presents and told family stories.  The evening ran well past midnight followed by a good night's sleep.  Tomorrow we head to Miami to meet up with the rest of our travel partners.  Yippee!

November 30th - Tampa

Today the four of us (Don, Dianna, Tom and Bobbie) took off in the convertible and headed south to Fort Collins Beach and points south.  We had lunch at Ana Marie Island sitting on the beach at a great snack shack and then drive the intercoastal waterway to Saratoga.

We got back to Tampa early evening in time for a wonderful Korean BBQ at a local haunt followed by some TV and family time.