We began to gather around noon in the hotel bar. Some of us had slept in while others had gotten up early to explore the grounds of the hotel. We were all stunned to learn that the hotel was barely 33 years old. We were all sure that it was at least 60 to 100 and full of history. The jungle, humidity, and weather certainly ages buildings around here! Around 1PM we were met by the staff of Amazon Clipper Cruises. Fritz was the first to appear on scene. He was a pleasant handsome young man of Swiss decent and spoke with a heavy accent. That certainly got Verena and Hans excited. We chatted for about a half hour while waiting for other staff members to appear. Next was Wayne Augusto, our guide for the next seven days. Wayne is a native Amazonian, born and raised about 400 miles north of Manuas on the banks of the Rio Negro. He served in the Brazilian army for 10 years (he does not talk about his service) but spoke excellent English and did share that he had traveled all over the Europe and had been to New York City many times. This of course led many of us to assume he was in special services with a dark past of espionage and intrique. Well, we’re on vacation and we have a right to fantasize! A large man, dark skinned, with a sly grin, Wayne was charming and direct.
We were escorted down to the river’s edge where we saw our boat for the first time. The Amazon Clipper, right out of the pages of every jungle movie you ever saw. Tall and narrow riding high in the water the ship had three decks. We were given a quick tour of the boat. Six cabins on the first deck along with the kitchen and crew quarters. Dining area open to the water and three more cabins on the second deck along with the bar and the wheel house. The third deck was actually the top of the boat surrounded by a full railing and a canopy. We knew instantly where we would be spending a lot of our time since from the top of the boat the views were terrific.
We were served a welcome cocktail and a bowl of a wonderful chicken and vegetable soup. Our cook, Conception, would prove to have significant talent as the days past. We met our barman and cabin stewart, Hernandez, soft spoken and a bit shy. Our enginerr Calico would also prove to be a skilled canoe driver and then of course our Captain, de Matteo.
After our light lunch we were assigned our cabins and gven some time to get acquatined with the boat. Clothes came off and swimsuits came on…it was 100 degrees and humid. Each cabin had a set of built in bunks – narrow with white sheets, and a private bath with toilet and sink and showerhead over the toilet. Sitting on the can and taken a shower would be come a more than once daily event. The boat was only 25 years old but you could see how the humidity and harshness of the jungle had taken it’s toll. Charm and a bit of mystery came out of each and every crack in the paint and wood. We were wll like a bunch of kids and the boat was all ours for the next six days,.
We left the river bank and headed south on the Amazon River to the meeting of the waters. The place where the Amazon and Rio Nego rivers meet and join. The Amazon was the color of dark caramel and the Rio Negro black from the tannens. The Amazon moves so fast that the mud that runs off the land cannot settle. The Rio Nego is slower and the leaves and such settle to the bottom and turn black. Where the rivers meet is a distinct line in the water. It was so cool to wind back and forth over the meeting place as we headed up stream for our first night on the river and in the jungle.
As we sailed Wayne brought out the maps and the books and set up the shipboard library. He then gave us a detailed day bv day overview of what was to come. Afterward we all settled in on the various decks and watched a civilization and the city passed by and disappeard and the jungle took over the river banks. As the sun set we found our resting place for the night, set our anchor and enjoed and amazing buffet of traditional foods. After dinner we went upstairs and counted stars for what seemed like hours. Tomorrow will be a long day full of adventure and it’s just started!
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